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Composite Deck Cleaning done properly

Composite decking does not need stain, but it is not maintenance-free. Older capped and uncapped composite grows black mildew spots, holds pollen and tree tannin stains, and gets a gray film in shade. Newer PVC and capped boards do better but still need a proper wash. The catch is that composite scratches and hazes easily with the wrong pressure or the wrong chemical.

We clean composite and PVC decks across Lake County with manufacturer-appropriate cleaners and low pressure. The goal is to get the deck back to its original color without leaving wand marks, which are permanent on capped composite.

Why prep is the whole job

Composite decks are the ones that get damaged most often by general pressure washing, because the surface looks tough. It is not. Capped composite has a thin outer layer and a narrow-tip wand will strip it in stripes. We use a soft-wash approach: cleaner, dwell, gentle agitation, low-pressure rinse. If your composite deck has black spots that will not come off with a hose, that is mildew in the surface and it needs the right cleaner, not more pressure.

Where we do this

We do a lot of this work in Gurnee, Mundelein and Indian Creek, and the central Lake County towns like Vernon Hills and Green Oaks keep us busy through the season. See every town on the areas page, or jump to Composite deck cleaning in Mettawa.

Also worth reading

Composite deck cleaning usually pairs with one of these.

Deck cleaning · Deck sealing · Fence staining

Get a number today

Text a photo of your deck or fence and get a number back. We answer Mon–Sat 7am–7pm.

Text (224) 944-8652

Composite deck cleaning problems we see most

Black spots that will not hose off

Mildew in the surface texture. A composite-safe cleaner removes it.

Rug and planter shadows

Uneven weathering. Cleaning evens most of it out on capped boards.

Tannin stains under trees

Oxalic-based cleaner lifts the brown.

Wand marks from a pressure wash

Permanent on capped composite. We use low pressure so it never happens.

Chalky gray film on old uncapped boards

First-generation composite oxidizes. Cleaning restores some color; some fading is permanent.

How we do it

  1. Identify the productCapped, uncapped or PVC, and which brand. It decides the cleaner and the pressure.
  2. Clear and protectFurniture, rugs and planters come off. Rugs left on composite are the most common cause of shadow marks.
  3. Apply cleanerA composite-safe cleaner with a sodium percarbonate base, or an oxalic-based one for tannin and rust stains.
  4. Agitate and rinseSoft brush on problem spots, then a low-pressure fan rinse under 1,500 PSI, wand kept well off the surface.
  5. Final checkWe inspect for remaining spots and do a second pass where needed. No sealing or coating is applied to composite.

What affects the price

  • Deck size and layout
  • Type of composite: uncapped first-generation boards hold more mildew than capped or PVC
  • How heavy the mildew or staining is
  • Rug shadows, grill grease and tannin stains that need spot treatment
  • Whether railings are composite, aluminum or wood

See the pricing page for how we quote, or text photos and get a real number.

Stain options

  • Transparent and toner: Shows all the grain, least UV protection, shortest life. Best on new cedar and hardwood.
  • Semi-transparent: Our most common choice. Adds color, shows grain, three to four years on horizontals.
  • Semi-solid: More pigment, hides weathering and mismatched boards, still shows some texture. Good on older decks and fences.
  • Solid: Opaque like paint but breathable. Longest UV life, but it will eventually peel and needs stripping to change. We use it when you want a color.
Natural cedarTransparent to semi-transparent, shows the grain
Honey goldWarm semi-transparent, most popular on cedar
RedwoodSemi-transparent, classic deck tone
WalnutSemi-solid, hides older weathering
Driftwood graySemi-solid or solid, modern look on fences

Timing in Lake County

Our season runs roughly late April through October. Stain needs the wood dry, temperatures between about 50 and 90 degrees, and 24 to 48 hours without rain afterward. In Lake County that means spring and early fall are the best windows, with midsummer jobs scheduled around heat and pop-up storms. We book spring work early because the good weeks fill fast.

Wood types we work on

  • Cedar: The most common deck and fence wood in Lake County. Naturally rot-resistant but soft, so it tears under high pressure. Takes penetrating oil beautifully and holds a semi-transparent tone for three to four years.
  • Pressure-treated pine: Builder-grade decking on most 1990s-and-newer homes. Needs to dry out for months after installation before it will accept stain. Greens up in shade fast. Semi-solid stains hide its uneven color well.
  • Hardwood (ipe, cumaru, tigerwood): Dense and oily, so it absorbs very little. Needs a hardwood-specific penetrating oil applied thin and wiped back. Left bare it goes a uniform silver, which some people want.
  • Composite and PVC: Does not take stain and should not be coated. Needs periodic cleaning with a composite-safe product and low pressure to remove mildew, pollen and tannin stains.

Before we arrive

  • Move furniture, grills, rugs and planters off the deck or away from the fence line the night before
  • Leave an outdoor spigot on and reachable; we bring our own hoses
  • Let neighbors know if we are staining a shared fence, so cars and patio furniture on their side are moved
  • Turn off sprinklers for two days before and two days after
  • Keep pets inside while the cleaner is on the wood and until the stain is dry to the touch
  • If HOA approval is needed for a color, get it in writing before the stain day

Aftercare

After staining, keep furniture and foot traffic off for 24 to 48 hours, longer if it is humid. Rinse pollen and leaves off through the season instead of letting them sit and hold moisture. Move planters and rugs periodically so they do not leave shadows. Rinse the deck each spring with a hose, and when water stops beading on the horizontal boards, that is the signal for a maintenance coat. Done on that schedule, a deck never needs stripping again.

Composite deck cleaning FAQ

Can composite decks be pressure washed?

Only at low pressure with a wide tip. Manufacturers generally cap it around 1,500 PSI held a foot or more away. Higher than that, or a narrow tip, will scar the surface.

What are the black spots on my composite deck?

Almost always mildew growing in the surface texture, fed by pollen and moisture. A composite-safe cleaner removes it. Bleach alone will lighten it and leave it to come back.

Should composite decking be sealed?

Generally no. Most manufacturers advise against coatings on capped composite and PVC. Some uncapped first-generation boards can take a composite-specific sealer, and we will tell you if yours is one.

Will cleaning remove scratches or fading?

No. Cleaning removes dirt and growth. Fading on old uncapped composite is permanent, and scratches on capped boards are permanent.

Composite deck cleaning by town

Every Lake County town has its own composite deck cleaning page.

Composite deck cleaning in Libertyville and all of Lake County

Text a photo of the wood and your town. Quotes usually come back the same day.

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