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Lake County Fence & Deck Restoration logoLake CountyFence & Deck Restoration

Deck Restoration & Refinishing done properly

Restoration is what a deck needs when cleaning is not enough. Peeling solid stain, a film-forming finish that has cracked, boards that are gray and fuzzy from years of neglect, or a deck that was stained over dirt and is now blotchy. We strip it back to bare wood, sand what needs sanding, brighten, and refinish with a penetrating stain that will not peel.

A lot of the older decks in Lake County are cedar from the 1980s and 1990s, and a lot of them are sound underneath a bad finish. Restoration is usually a fraction of the cost of replacement. We will tell you plainly when a deck is past saving, but most are not.

Why prep is the whole job

The reason so many decks look bad is that each new coat went over the last failed one. Stain does not stick to stain that is letting go. Restoration resets the deck to bare wood so the new finish bonds to the grain, not to a flaking layer underneath it. Done right, it is the last time the deck needs anything more than a maintenance coat for years.

Where we do this

We do a lot of this work in Gurnee, Mundelein and Indian Creek, and the central Lake County towns like Vernon Hills and Green Oaks keep us busy through the season. See every town on the areas page, or jump to Deck restoration in Mettawa.

Also worth reading

Deck restoration usually pairs with one of these.

Deck cleaning · Deck sealing · Fence staining

Get a number today

Text a photo of your deck or fence and get a number back. We answer Mon–Sat 7am–7pm.

Text (224) 944-8652

Deck restoration problems we see most

Peeling solid stain

The most common restoration. Strip, sand, brighten, refinish with a penetrating product.

Paint on a deck

Paint traps moisture and always peels on horizontals. It has to come off entirely.

Several old coats, different colors

Each layer failing at a different rate. Stripping back to bare wood is the only reset.

Gray deck under a failed clear coat

A film-forming clear that cracked. Strip it and go to a penetrating oil instead.

Boards too far gone

We tell you when replacement is the honest answer. Usually a few boards, rarely the whole deck.

How we do it

  1. Assess and quoteWe identify what finish is on the deck, how many layers, and whether any boards need replacing before refinishing.
  2. StripA sodium-hydroxide or solvent stripper, depending on the finish, dwells and lifts the old coating. Stubborn areas get scraped and a second application.
  3. SandHorizontal boards get an orbital sand at 60 to 80 grit to remove residue and raised grain. Rails and spindles are hand-sanded as needed.
  4. Brighten and dryThe brightener neutralizes the stripper and restores tone. Then the deck dries for two to three days.
  5. RefinishA penetrating oil or oil-hybrid stain, back-brushed, with a second coat on horizontals. Sealed edges, screw holes and end grain.

What affects the price

  • What is on the deck now: one coat of oil is quick, three coats of solid stain or paint is a two-day strip
  • Size, levels, stairs and railing style
  • How many boards need replacing or re-fastening first
  • Whether sanding is spot work or the whole surface
  • Stain choice for the refinish

See the pricing page for how we quote, or text photos and get a real number.

Stain options

  • Transparent and toner: Shows all the grain, least UV protection, shortest life. Best on new cedar and hardwood.
  • Semi-transparent: Our most common choice. Adds color, shows grain, three to four years on horizontals.
  • Semi-solid: More pigment, hides weathering and mismatched boards, still shows some texture. Good on older decks and fences.
  • Solid: Opaque like paint but breathable. Longest UV life, but it will eventually peel and needs stripping to change. We use it when you want a color.
Natural cedarTransparent to semi-transparent, shows the grain
Honey goldWarm semi-transparent, most popular on cedar
RedwoodSemi-transparent, classic deck tone
WalnutSemi-solid, hides older weathering
Driftwood graySemi-solid or solid, modern look on fences

Timing in Lake County

Our season runs roughly late April through October. Stain needs the wood dry, temperatures between about 50 and 90 degrees, and 24 to 48 hours without rain afterward. In Lake County that means spring and early fall are the best windows, with midsummer jobs scheduled around heat and pop-up storms. We book spring work early because the good weeks fill fast.

Wood types we work on

  • Cedar: The most common deck and fence wood in Lake County. Naturally rot-resistant but soft, so it tears under high pressure. Takes penetrating oil beautifully and holds a semi-transparent tone for three to four years.
  • Pressure-treated pine: Builder-grade decking on most 1990s-and-newer homes. Needs to dry out for months after installation before it will accept stain. Greens up in shade fast. Semi-solid stains hide its uneven color well.
  • Hardwood (ipe, cumaru, tigerwood): Dense and oily, so it absorbs very little. Needs a hardwood-specific penetrating oil applied thin and wiped back. Left bare it goes a uniform silver, which some people want.
  • Composite and PVC: Does not take stain and should not be coated. Needs periodic cleaning with a composite-safe product and low pressure to remove mildew, pollen and tannin stains.

Before we arrive

  • Move furniture, grills, rugs and planters off the deck or away from the fence line the night before
  • Leave an outdoor spigot on and reachable; we bring our own hoses
  • Let neighbors know if we are staining a shared fence, so cars and patio furniture on their side are moved
  • Turn off sprinklers for two days before and two days after
  • Keep pets inside while the cleaner is on the wood and until the stain is dry to the touch
  • If HOA approval is needed for a color, get it in writing before the stain day

Aftercare

After staining, keep furniture and foot traffic off for 24 to 48 hours, longer if it is humid. Rinse pollen and leaves off through the season instead of letting them sit and hold moisture. Move planters and rugs periodically so they do not leave shadows. Rinse the deck each spring with a hose, and when water stops beading on the horizontal boards, that is the signal for a maintenance coat. Done on that schedule, a deck never needs stripping again.

Deck restoration FAQ

How do I know if my deck needs restoration or just cleaning?

If the finish is peeling, flaking or cracking, or if a previous stain went on blotchy, it needs stripping. If the deck is just gray or dirty with no failing coating, cleaning and staining is enough.

Can you restore a deck with solid stain or paint on it?

Yes. Paint and solid stain are the hardest to strip and often need sanding as well. It takes longer, and the result is worth it: bare wood that takes a proper penetrating finish.

Will a restored deck look like new?

Close. Stripping and sanding remove the gray and the failed finish, and the brightener brings back the wood tone. Old checks and small cracks will still be there, which is normal on a deck that is 20 years old.

How long does deck restoration take?

Typically three to five days across two or three visits, mostly waiting for drying between stripping, sanding and staining. The on-site time is one to two days.

Is it cheaper to restore or replace a deck?

Restoring is usually far cheaper, as long as the framing and most boards are sound. We will tell you if we find rot in the joists or ledger, because at that point replacement is the honest answer.

Deck restoration by town

Every Lake County town has its own deck restoration page.

Deck restoration in Libertyville and all of Lake County

Text a photo of the wood and your town. Quotes usually come back the same day.

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